A moped, ferry, van, taxi, another taxi, bus and tricycle ride is all it takes to get to Dauin from Malapascua. Well, two days later and about 300 km to the south, dusty and sweaty we were finally there. In our minds Dauin coast was just a long, long stretch of beach with dirt road access and no resorts. How things change in few years was all we thought off while stuck in traffic jam and rush hour madness. Philippines are changing…
As our resort was only about 800 m (according to our friend Google) from the main road we were toying with the idea of taking a bus from Dumaguete and asking the driver to stop on the crossroads. With two coffin sized suitcases advertising our arrival into bus station, it’s no wonder that local tricycle owners swarmed over us. Half-heartedly we started negotiating for the ride, but couldn’t come to an agreement (we are tough customers after all). So, decided to go for a lunch instead, no point of travelling on empty stomach is our new Philippine motto. But after lunch and a few beers we succumbed to the couch potato attitude and agreed to take a tricycle. The best decision of the month! 800 m turned into endless dust infused high Himalayan lookalike path to the resort. We would probably still be there now… buried under the suitcases…
The resort was a rather nice surprise. Lovely beach cabanas, big pool and cocktail happy hour in the bar (with cocktails ranging from reasonable 1.50 € to extortionate 2 €). Don’t really know what the staff expected, but we took to it like polar bears to ice.
Some things never change thou. Beach was jet another breeding ground for sand-flies, but this time we had an option to keep away. And used it. Pool next to the bar was a better idea anyway. Especially when our friends arrived. We had a really good time. Floating in the pool enjoying lovely pina-coladas and marguerites. Life could get worse… The bar bill at the end was a cold shower and medical miracle at the same time. So we opted (our bodies did) for self-induced abstinence until after we finish with diving on Philippines.
Diving was the only disappointment really. The coral gardens are still amazing and probably one of the best in the world we have seen, but there is far less fish than it used to be. And more sea-snakes. With dive guides instructed to lead us the other way (well, Nives really) we found a lot of turtles and enjoyed the corals and other lovely marine creatures. And some less lovely – jellyfish. Not to elaborate further, one of us (yes, Nives again) left the resort looking like a failed experiment in the sci-fi movie. No pictures of that, thank you very much!
As the plans go, ours was to take the over the land route to our next stop, but after spending a lot of time on the public transport we started thinking about flying. Especially after we heard about the big shoal of sardines in Moalboal. Plans were changed (again…) and we were back on the road. Another tricycle, ferry, tricycle, bus and final tricycle and we were there. And all of it in one day! We are getting so good at this.
When booking Moalboal we decided to stay in the same place as the last time we were there. Mainly as the dive center was recommended and because it was on the right side of the beach. And yes, you are guessing right, we were in for a surprise. Moalboal is now changed to a youngster party town. Scene is more like Koh Tao than Philippines we remember! Damn we decided on a ten days abstinence after Dauin! But proud to announce we stuck to it and resisted the calls of beach bars and the cheapest beer on Philippines.
Diving was alright, nothing really to write home about, but coral was nice and sardines were amazing. Millions of them! We did diving and snorkelling. It is an amazing feeling to swim into the big blackness moving towards you and suddenly be surrounded by millions of small fish swimming around you as if directed by this exquisite choreography that can be done only by the nature itself. We kept going at it until our ears gave up on us. The experience was slightly spoiled by jellyfish (again!), but something we will definitely remember. This was a short stop, as we are now on the way to the jewel in the Philippine diving crown – the Apo reef.
As always, 4 more pictures click here.
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