So, the plan was changed yet again and we were facing two days in Kanazawa. And as usual, biggest fu*k-ups, turn to be the best things that happen to you. We absolutely loved this place! Very few tourists, charming town and probably prettiest garden in all of Japan.
And we haven’t even talked of ramen. Now, this is the food discovery of Japan for the Jugs – noodle soup Japanese style. Absolutely fabulous! Rich, thick pork bone broth with slices of mouth melting pork belly and tasty firm noodles... divine… Top that with soft boiled egg (Dejan), young bamboo shoots (Nives) and sprouts (both) and you have a winning combo. We probably had the best ramen in Japan in a little joint across from our hotel in Kanazawa. Tiny place serving just this dish with long queues outside (we finally gave in and realized this is part of the ritual of the Japanese meal). But what a feast that was… We went back every day!
We found a really pristine izakaya as well – only locals there and menu on a tablet as a translation. And we can confirm – Google translate does weird things. But we bravely soldered on through the menu (and sake) and had an amazing evening. At the end we were saying our goodbyes and thankyous (arigatou gozaimasu) to the waitresses in the street with bows so deep we got lightheaded (sake had absolutely nothing to do with it!). One of the things to remember…
Kanazawa gardens really didn’t disappoint. Large grounds crisscrossed with paths and streams allowing for lazy walks while enjoying what-ever plants are blooming at that season. But this is not the only thing to see: geisha quarter (so-so), samurai district and museum (absolutely fab) and even a play with local music (and drums, breath-taking – literally!). Kanazawa was such a refreshing way to see traditional Japan without hordes of tourists (we were the only two visitors to see the play!). And in hindsight – they had the best market of all as well! Wish we spent more time there…
Other thing we got to experience here is traditional onsen. For the non-initiated these are thermal baths Japanese way. Very similar to hamams. Not even that different to traditional sauna really. In general, this is the place where people used to come to get warm (and clean). And to chat and gossip. And indeed they did that a lot (especially in the ladies quarters – of course, it is gender divided). So, there we were, arriving in our little pyjamas (it was really hilarious as most of the guests in this hotel just walk around in these) and trying to follow local customs in traditional baths. First you wash yourself sitting on a little stool, then you go in the less hot pool, then you wash yourself again, and then you go for the really hot pool. And we mean really hot! You are actually dizzy after about ten minutes and have to get out. But then, it’s time to wash yourself again. And then pretty much faint back in your room. Such an experience!
Finally, our Alps day arrived and it was sunny. Disaster averted! Off we were on a shinkansen bullet train (first one for us, as there were none from Kyoto to Kanazawa). Definitely one of the things on our to-do list. But a little deflating experience. Not too different from bullet trains in Europe (why would it be really?), except it goes a lot underground or in the populated areas. And Japan is populated (at least part we saw). House on house, road crossing road and rice field next to a rice field. But the trains looked awesome, more like fighter jets really.
To say that we were not prepared for Alps is the biggest understatement. Most appropriate (bear in mind, we did not say adequate here!) shoes we had were crocks. Yup, your usual winter hiking gear. But hey, where there is will, there is a way! So we set off in multiple layers of clothing (pretty much what we had bar the tropical clothes) and ready to face the cold. Luckily, we were making our attempt the Japan way. All organized, on prepared transportation vehicles and paths with army of uniformed employees keeping you in tow (Takes a train, cable car, bus, trolley bus, rope-way and a bus to cross)
Japan Alps are known for the powder snow – greetings from Siberia. No joking here, this is where the weather front comes from. And keeps coming throughout the winter. Enough snow here to impress the polar bears! And this is why we went. Believe it or not, but there still was a 14m high wall of white gold to be found at the end of May! Truly impressive sight. This must be the reason why tropical belt Asians flock here to experience the snow for the first time. In orderly fashion thou. You get to walk on a strictly guarded route and cannot go out of the corridor marked with the rope. Minute you step out, there is local jedi with the lightsabre (ok, stick) to get you back on the right path. Actually funny. Well, when you get used to it. So, we slid around on the snow in our crocks. Guess this was a sight as well…
Few hot soups and some more cabbage and we were off again. Trolleybus and gondola ride to another impressive site: Kurobe dam. The tallest one in Japan. And it really is something to see. Basically this whole route to cross the Alps was built to allow for building of this dam. We really enjoyed the views of the snow-capped mountains and this architectural wonder while sipping some sake and having some more cabbage. And soon enough it was time to pack and go to our next stop – Nagano.
Nagano is a city just below the Japanese Alps and host of the Winter Olympic Games in 1998. This fact is still obvious the minute you step off the bus or the train. Big logos, signs, pictures – like it was yesterday. Really nice to see. We didn’t have a lot of time here, just one night. Next day we were on the morning shinkansen to Tokyo, our last stop in Japan. So, we spent the night having another yakiniku (not even closely good as one in Osaka) and ramen (very good ramen, but not top of our list). Soon we hit the sheets tired from cold and fresh mountain air, getting ready for the big day next day – sumo tournament.
More gardens, rice fields and snow here.
You look nice in pijamas :-)
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