After a quick stop over in KL (our home town in Asia) to wash and repack, we were off again. And it is not a typo, place is really called Layang Layang. If you are a diver you may have heard of it, if not – not a chance. If former, it has to be on your bucket list, if later don’t really bother. This place is very remote – only one (very expensive) flight from Borneo, about one third way towards Vietnam. It is a tiny island (partially reclaimed from the sea) that hosts mostly Malaysian marine forces and one hotel (guessing not a cheapo, right?). What is it famous for you ask – well, sharks of course! But not any kind of sharks. This is where scalloped hammerheads come to perform their mating rituals and swim in large schools. Yes, this is one of the best places in the world for schooling hammerheads (if you are not a diver, just a quick note: this is one of the holy grails of diving experiences that can make anyone drool). And it happens only once a year, in mid April.
This trip was practically ten years in making. We wanted to go on our first Pelican, but left it too late to book – it was sold out. On our last big trip we had other plans in April. So, this time, we planned in advance. Let’s put it this way: even before we had our plane tickets, we had this holiday booked. And to be on the safe side, we re-mortgaged the house and booked for two weeks.
But first, a stop-over in Kota Kinabalu, Borneo pearl capital. No need to guess why we were here, right? Only thing left to say is that Nives' endurance in pearl buying was matched only by Dejan's expectations of a night out in his favorite restaurant in the world (as a promised reward). Seven St Georges, here we come!
We came to the dive resort with big expectations to face a crude reality. Not a lot of people saw sharks. One or two here and there, but no schools. Disaster! That missed chance on Apo reef seemed even worse now. Nives crying for not seeing them at all and Dejan for not swimming harder to see closer up – very sober mood in our hotel room indeed. But then a miracle happened. After twenty or so years of bad luck with hammerheads (note: we have been filmed with them swimming behind us and not seeing them!) something changed. We were the lucky ones for a change. So much so, other people kept copying Dejan’s underwater footage! And we were there for the golden week as the dive-masters kept referring to it.
In the end how was it? Magical. Amazing. Unique. Absolutely fabulous. Sharks were breath-taking (literally sometimes, as you do have to swim a lot!), but there was so much more: manta rays, tuna... To describe diving in this place with one word would be exciting. You never know what is going to happen. Yes, you do have occasional dives when you spend most of the time in the blue and see nothing, but that is magical as well. Surrounded by blue water everywhere, just floating. Like space in some ways. We absolutely loved this place. So much so, that is now firmly one of our top three favourites (in no order: Palau, Tuamotus in French Polynesia and now Layang Layang).
Now, don’t confuse Apo island with Apo reef (which, incidentally also has an Apo island). They are very much two different things (and very much apart from each other). But with 7500 islands to name you can’t really blame the Philippinos to have ran out of ideas. But why Apo? Well, no wonder really with family being central to life here, as it means the grandfather in English. And without giving much away too early, this Apo really is the diving grand-daddy.
But let’s start from the beginning. Getting to Mindoro and a starting point for diving safaris to Apo reef was a demanding task. Or so we thought so. But it only took a tricycle, bus, taxi, flight, van, overnight on the bench in the harbour (sounds worse than it is, it had toilets), ferry and another van and we were already there. Really getting the knack with this travelling. Suitcases or no suitcases!
Our resort (and diving starting point) was a total surprise. A pleasant one! Pool with sea views, lovely room and absolutely amazing food (damn it, again!). Sand-flies were there as well, but hey, these are Philippines and we have a bit more deet to go through. Beer was expensive thou (1.50 $), but we are on the self-imposed abstinence, so all fine. Instead we splurged on €1 fresh coconut and had it in the pool overlooking the sunset. Life could be tougher…
As for the diving, we were just ourselves again. Like Thailand, we also booked two trips here – some people just never learn. At least these were two short two day trips. Easy on the ears and body we thought. But we didn’t really count that these were not so touristic areas and the boat was basically a youth-hostel on water. Just matrasses one next to another (literally, absolutely no space between them!) under the stars on the rolling sea. First trip was mostly people in their forties and fifties, so a lot of moaning around. But the seas were calm and we slept pretty well. Well, that would be the two of us, our neighbours kept complaining about the snoring (Nives didn’t hear a thing, years of adjustment…). Second trip was slightly different – less people (eight instead of 14), mostly young girls (very hard on only two guys aboard), but the sea Gods decided we were not to have a good one. Most of the night boat was rolling violently like a rollercoaster. Another one of those…
But it was all worth it. Warm blue waters, gin clear visibility of 30 – 50 m and good fish life (this coming from us is pretty good!). We had best giant tuna swim-byes ever (literally counting teeth here!), lot of turtles, bumphead parrotfish and some sharks. As nature (and those damn ears) does it, it was better for some than the others… Dejan saw three hammer-head sharks and Nives is still green with envy. Arguable, as the sharks were not close and the sighting was compliant with “no video – didn’t happen” rule as judged by all other divers on the boat. But still…
So, our judgement on Apo reef? It is far, hard to get to, not a luxury one (well, you still have a bed, place to sit most of the time and there is still one toilet for all on the boat), but if you are a diver so worth it! One of the few remote places left in the world offering really good diving. Keep in mind that you can get here with airlines not blacklisted by EU and there is no malaria really (which is really a good thing for Nives). In Philippines, this place is only topped by UNESCO protected Tubbataha reef national park.
After diving it was like ducks to water as we hit the pool and cocktails. This time fresh coconut topped with copious amounts of local rum and consumed in the same lovely pool overlooking the beach. Makes us wonder why we ever left…
But it was time to go and relax for a few days. Destination Boracay. Mainly because everyone asks us all the time if we have been there and because it is the most popular holiday destination in Philippines. We brazed ourselves for hordes of tourists, but nothing could prepare us for the reality. Yes, it is beautiful. White sand beach with turquoise see stretches from one side of the island to the other. But the amount of people! We have never experienced anything like this before (or maybe we were still adjusted to tranquillity of Mindoro). Tourists (manly from China) are only topped by numerous offerings of one activity or the other. Mobiles on selfie-sticks and drones constantly taking pictures. One shop after another, vendor after vendor. Total sensory overload, so much so that we escaped to our room with some cheese and crackers on the first night. But the biggest disappointment was that the people are not as friendly as elsewhere, price of globalisation probably.
Sort of happy to have seen Boracay (but determined never-ever to come back!) we were on the road again. It was time to conclude our Philippines adventure. Final verdict? We were and still are in love with this country. For us, it is the most beautiful place in South East Asia. Granted, you probably need to be a diver to share our opinion. But this was probably last visit for a while. We dove what we wanted to, have been to the places we wanted to visit. Even manged to escape Manila this time (really is a dump!). Other parts of the world are calling to us. But before that, a few days of R&R and some more planning in KL is what the doctor ordered (we might even buy a bottle of wine or two).
